Not So Traditional Fast Skate

As you well know, I am always intrigued by variations on old classics. When they give birth to new dishes, which can be made in less than ten minutes, my enthusiasm is unbound. Add to this a lesser fat content than the original and the timely use of seasonal vegetables and I am totally sold. Taste matters. Whereas, skate bistro style is traditionally cooked in butter and dressed in a sharp lemon and caper sauce, I have been toying with a meatier but lighter version. To add richness, I like to sauté onions, or in this case, shallots in butter or olive oil. Balsamic vinegar and red wine are added to obtain a wine reduction. At this point, the sauce could equally be at home on a rib eye steak. When my daughters were young and could not be made to eat “smelly” fish, I layered that sauce on top of white breaded fish fillets. The plate was emptied without a groan. For a more adult palate, I like the fish to be just grilled. The crispness of the shallots goes well with the skate flesh texture. Butternut chips, besides being in season, complement the sweetness of the balsamic reduction.

Skate “wine merchant”, a literal translation from the French, which emphasize the use of wine in the recipe, and its garniture serve 4 and is elegant enough for guests and equally enjoyable in a less formal dinner.

Skate wine merchant

(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Cheap)

Ingredients:

2 lb (1 kg, 2 pieces) skinned skate*, bone in

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 shallot peeled and finely sliced

¼ cup (60 ml) balsamic vinegar

1 cup (230 ml) red wine

 Material:

1 frying pan

1 saucepan

       Sauté the shallot slices in a little oil until soft. Add to the saucepan the vinegar and the wine. Reduce until about ½ (120ml) a cup is left.

       Sauté the skate in a large frying pan for about 3 minutes on each side. Cut each piece in two and place on a warm plate.

       Pour the sauce on top and serve with butternut chips

Butternut chips

(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Cheap)

Ingredients:

2 medium butternut squashes

Vegetal oil

Coarse salt

Material:

Potato peeler

Grapefruit spoon

Slicing meat machine

Deep Fryer

       Peel the squashes and halve them. Slice them as thinly as possible in the slicing machine. Put ½ in the frying basket.

       Set the deep fryer at 375F (190C). When it has reached the right temperature, immerge the basket for 5 minutes. When the chips are crisp, place them in a salad bowl lined with paper towels. Repeat the operation a second time with the remaining chips.

* If the skinned version is not available at the seafood shop, cook the skate wings in boiling water to which 3 tablespoons of white vinegar have been added for 2 minutes, until the skin starts to come off. Strain the wings and  peel off and discard the skin.

   

Worldly tapas

Light meals are in. The Spanish have a tradition we can borrow from. They eat “tapas”. At first it was a way not to drink on an empty stomach and consisted of little more than a garnished piece of bread. But soon the vast array of Spanish cuisine came to the rescue and contemporary tapas include any food preparation in smaller quantities. A bar fare generally includes 4 to 6 different preparations. It is not necessary to confine oneself to Europe and Asia has much to offer to enrich the repertoire. Here is my selection of 6 worldly dishes. They bring to mind countless hot afternoons spent leisurely sharing good conversation, wine and food under the shade of a tree. The memory sustains us in the long cold winter, while the food miraculously lifts our spirit.
To prevent last minute panic, start by the marinade for the lamb chops, continue with the Japanese vegetables, which you can ready and then reserve in the oven until dinner is served. Prepare the ham and cheese rolls, which can also be kept warmed in the oven. Make and refrigerate the chocolate sauce. When the guests arrive, prepare the truffle quail eggs crostini and grill the Asian chops. It will take about 5 minutes.

Spanish Meatballs
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 20 minutes, A little pricey)
Ingredients:
½ lb lamb meat from the shoulder
2 slices of bread
2 tablespoons of milk
1 egg
Dusting of flour
½ lb Spanish cheese (Manchego)
1 slice foie gras
Material:
1 food processor
1 frying pan
1 ovenproof dish

Remove the crust from the bread and soak in the milk.
Grind the meat and the bread in the food processor with the sharp blade on.
Add the egg and mix well. Dust a plate with flour and roll out bite-sized meatballs.
Fry them on all faces and place them in the ovenproof dish. You can refrigerate them until ready to serve.
Turn on the oven at 360F with the grill option on. Place the partition in the oven on the upper tier.
Add a shaving of cheese on the top of the meatballs. Cut the foie gras in small pieces and add to the meat. Cook until cheese and foie gras have melted.
Serve immediately

Asian chops
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Marinade: 2 hours plus, Reasonable)
Ingredients:
6 tiny lamb chops
1 slice ginger
1 garlic clove
2 stems cilantro
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon Worcester sauce
Material:
1 salad bowl
1 blender
1 frying pan

Place all the ingredients except for the lamb chops in the blender and run the machine.
Marinate the lamb chops in the blended sauce for at least two hours.
Stir-fry the lambs for three minutes on each side and serve immediately.

Truffle quail eggs crostini
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
6 quail eggs
6 slices of baguette
Truffle oil
6 asparagus stems
Salt and pepper to taste
Material:
Toaster
Frying pan
Sprinkle truffle oil on top of the bread and toast until crisp and gold.
Add the olive oil to the frying pan and sauté the asparagus until lightly charred. Set the asparagus on top of the bread.
Crack the eggs in the lightly oiled pan and cook them sunny side up. Place each egg on top of the bread. Add salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Ham and cheese rolls
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 40 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
6 thin slices cooked ham
6 slices Gruyère
1 tablespoon cream
2 tablespoon scream cheese
1 potato peeled and cubed
¼ cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
2 eggs
Breadcrumbs
Olive oil for frying
Material:
Saucepan
Whip
Frying pan
Toothpicks
Place the potato cubes and milk in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the butter, cream and cream cheese. Whip into a purée. Bring to room temperature.
Lay down a slice of ham. Cover with the Gruyère slice. Top with a little purée. Roll up and secure with two toothpicks. Refrigerate until ready to eat dinner.
Dip the roll in the beaten egg and coat with breadcrumbs.
Fry in abundant oil. Serve immediately.
Japanese vegetables
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes, Resting time: 60 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
¾ cup (180 ml) soda water
2/3 cup (105 g) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1½ teaspoons salt
1 sweet potato
1 broccoli stem
Red pepper flakes
Vegetable oil for deep frying
For the sauce (facultative):
1 tablespoon Daikon radish grated
2 tablespoons Mirin sauce
1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar
2 teaspoons fish sauce
2 teaspoons soy sauce
Frying oil
Material
Tongue
Fry maker or a deep saucepan
Ovenproof dish
Paper towel
Salad bowl
Bowl
Sifter
Pour the soda water in the bowl. Sift in the flour, cornstarch and salt. Whisk until blended. Cover and refrigerate for 45-60 minutes.
Put all the sauces together in a little bowl. Add the grated daikon and red pepper flakes.
Peel and form fries out of the sweet potato. Cut the broccoli florets, keeping the broccoli stems for a soup. Wash and dry them.
Heat the oil to 375F (190C). Dip the vegetables in the batter. With the tongue, remove each piece and fry four at a time for about two minutes. Transfer to an ovenproof dish lined with paper towel in a low (200F/95C) oven while you finish up frying. Prepare in the oven and keep until ready to serve.
Serve with or without the sauce.
Strawberries dipped in chocolate
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
18 strawberries washed, stem on
3 oz dark chocolate
¼ cup heavy cream
1 pinch Espelette powder
Material
1 bowl
Melt the chocolate with the cream. Whip in the powder. This can be prepared ahead and can be micro waved before serving.
Serve surrounded with the strawberries to dip.

Dressing a soup

I love soups. They bring warmth to the body in winter and require about as much cooking talent and equipment as a smoothie. A good blender, any fresh seasonal vegetables and you are 3 minutes away from a healthy meal. To give body to high water content vegetables such as spinach, zucchini, asparagus and leeks, you can add a potato, boil in some cream or blend in the yolk of an egg before serving. My secret ingredient: sauté some onions in butter or olive oil and put them in the mixer along with the cooked vegetables. What you might not imagine is that soups can also be elegant. You can dress them up with croutons (that’s French for baked stale bread) bits of bacon, boiled eggs, dried fruit such as apple and pear or even sautéed mushrooms. The only limit is your imagination. The only requirement: cut as finely as possible the chosen ingredients. I generally love to pair sweet (pumpkin) and salty (bacon), or build on commonly associated tastes (eggs and asparagus or leeks). Another good combination is crunchy (toasted bread) and creamy (spinach). You can serve a bicolor soup for a starter. Pick two color-contrasting soups such as the pumpkin and spinach featured in this issue, pour each in a carafe or a measuring beaker and pour both at the same time in a soup bowl. You have leftovers? Not to worry, they freeze beautifully, or better they make tasty light appetizers in shot glasses. All recipes serve 4
The essential butternut squash soup (Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
1 butternut squash
1 onion
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
Salt and pepper
Material:
Blender
Grapefruit spoon
Paper towel
Beaker
Place the onion in the freezer.
Cut the butternut squash in two. Remove the seeds. If you want to save them, clean and dry them before baking them on a cookie sheet.
Line the microwave with a paper towel and place the butternut squash halves on top. Microwave for 20 minutes or until soft. When the squash is cool enough to handle peel and place the flesh in the blender.
In the mean time, remove the onion from the freezer, peel, slice and cube the onions prior to sautéing in a little olive oil or butter depending on your taste. Add to the content of the blender
Cover the content of the blender with hot water. Add a teaspoon of salt and some pepper. Blend, taste and pour in a beaker. If the consistence is too thick, add water.

Creamy spinach (Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 15 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
2 bunch spinach
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large potato or the yolk of an egg
1/3cup (60 ml) crème fraîche or heavy cream
Material:
Colander
Saucepan
Set of tongues
Blender

Wash, cut off the end and dry the spinach in a colander. Place the blade of a knife flat on each garlic clove and strike the blade with the fist of the other hand. Discard the skin of the cloves.
Place the oil in a saucepan and add the spinach and crushed garlic. Sauté until the spinach is wilted. Place in the blender. Peel the potato and slice finely. Place in the saucepan, cover with water. Add a teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil. When the potato is tender to the knife, add to the content of the blender. Cover with hot water and blend until smooth. Return to the saucepan, add water if needed, cream and pepper and bring to a boil. Alternately, remove from the stove and add the beaten yolk of an egg instead of the cream to the spinach purée. Place in a beaker.

Garniture (Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 10 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
Stale bread cubed
1 tablespoon olive oil
Thyme leaves
5 Pancetta slices cubed
Material:
Frying pan
Paper towels
Salad bowl
Place the bread cubes in a salad bowl. Toss with the olive oil and the thyme leaves.
Set the frying pan on the high setting of the stove. Turn the cubes when they are golden. Reserve on a paper towel
Use the same frying pan to sauté the pancetta. Reserve on another paper towel.

To assemble, pour at the same time the two beakers. Sprinkle the bacon bits on the pumpkin soup and the croutons on the creamy spinach soup.

Fast after a feast

My weekly culinary comments have been running for over a year now. It provides a snapshot of what my family and I have been eating. As any record, journal or photograph, it provides its author with a snapshot of the past. For example, in 2009 I did not feel the need for a change of diet before February 16th. This year, I am speaking of a break one month earlier. The holidays take their toll. The emotions run high. The days are long and culminate in good meals charged with calories and lack of sleep. After all the excitement, it is necessary to restore good sleep patterns and food habits. A twenty minute nap after lunch will not interfere with the night rest and will help the organism restore itself.
I propose, in addition to the previous year recommendation, which is still valid, a three-day or a week fast. The principle is simple: eat mostly barely cooked vegetables and salad or soup, add a little fish or tofu in the evening, drink only water with a little cider or lemon juice and some green tea. The three-day schedule starts with a fresh apple, carrot and parsley juice and a cup of green tea. For lunch alternate between the following three salad recipes. The dinner should consist of steamed vegetables and either tofu or a grilled 3-oz fillet of fish. The weekly menu includes my favorite kefir recipe for breakfast along with some green tea or a rosemary mint infusion. For lunch a bowl of cabbage soup and one of the three salad recipes. Dinner is another bowl of cabbage soup, steamed vegetables and a seasonal fruit such as pear, apple or clementine. To your health!
Broccoli and fennel salad
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 20 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
2 broccoli stems
1 fennel bulb
1 tablespoon walnuts
Sauce:
1 shallot
The juice of a lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
Material:
Steamer
Blender
Meat slicing machine

Cut the florets from the broccoli and drop them in clean cold water. Keep the stems for a soup. Clean the fennel. Using the slicing machine, slice the bulb finely. Place the vegetables in the steamer basket and steam for about 10 minutes.
Drop the peeled shallot in the blender with 1 tablespoon of lemon and the olive oil. Blend well.
Place the vegetables on a plate. Add the walnuts and sprinkle with the sauce.

Beet salad
(Easy, Preparation: 10 minutes, Cooking time: 40 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
3 beets
3 oranges
1 black radish
Sauce:
1 tablespoon orange juice
3 tablespoon walnut oil
Material:
Silver foil
Grapefruit spoon
Salad bowl
Small bowl
Preheat the oven at 360F (180C)
Cut off the foliage of the beets and reserve for a soup. Wrap each beet in a silver foil and bake for 45 to 60 minutes.
Cut the oranges in two and remove the flesh with a grapefruit spoon. Place in the salad bowl.
Extract the remaining orange juice in a recipient. Beat the olive oil with the orange juice.
Peel the black radish and grate it in the food processor. Add to the salad bowl
Remove the beet from the oven, unwrap the foil and cut in sticks. Mix with the orange.
Pour the sauce in. Sprinkle with the radish and serve.

Vegetarian pot-au-feu salad
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
2 leeks
2 carrots
2 potatoes skin on
2 turnips
1 green onion minced
Sauce:
Foolproof Dijon vinaigrette
Material:
Steamer
Salad bowl
Peeler
Place the potatoes in the bottom of the steamer, cover with water and bring to a boil.
Remove the tops of the leeks and crisscross the top before dropping in cold water. Once the sand is off, place in the top basket of the steamer. Remove the tops of the turnips. Peel and place in the steamer basket. Peel the carrot and place in the steamer.
When the water boils, place the steamer basket on top and cover.
After 20 minutes, remove from the gas. Cool all the vegetables under running cold water. Cut all the vegetables in small pieces and place in the salad bowl. Add the Dijon vinaigrette and mix well. Sprinkle with the green onions

Cabbage soup
(Easy, Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes, Cheap
Ingredients:
Cabbage cut in quarters and blanched
4 garlic cloves
3 onions
5 carrots
1 celery root
The broccoli stems and beet tops leftover
Chicken broth
Salt and pepper
Material
4-quart stockpot
Peeler
Blender

Peel the garlic cloves and the onions. Slice. Peel the carrots and celery root and slice. Put all the vegetables including the broccoli stems and beet tops in the stockpot. Cover with the chicken broth. Add 1 teaspoon coarse salt and bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 minutes. Put in the blender and mix coarsely.

Breakfast kefir
(Easy, Preparation time: 5 minutes, Cheap)
Ingredients:
1 apple
The juice of a lemon
1 cup kefir
1 tablespoon nuts
1 tablespoon raisins
Material:
Food processor
Peeler
Peel the apple, grate them and place them in a bowl. Add the raisins and mix in with the lemon juice. Add the kefir and sprinkle with the nuts.